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Nepal
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Mountaineering
Expeditions to Nepal - Over 8000 Meters
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Introduction:
The
Himalayan kingdom of Nepal is blessed with the most
awe-inspiring gift of nature anywhere in the world. It
is home to the mighty Himalayas, which mean’s “abode of
snows” in Sanskrit. These mountains are the roots of
thousand’s of years of Nepali culture. They intimidate
us with their overwhelming size and humble us with their
apparent immortality. They are home to 8 of the 10
highest mountains in the world including the highest of
them all Mt. Everest. Mt. Everest rises to the top of
the Himalayas at 29,028 ft. It truly is an honor to sit
beneath such a natural spectacle. The first real
tourists to the Himalaya / Nepal, where the Mountaineers
that where attracted by the peaks of the Himalaya and
international attention was drawn to these mountains in
1953 when New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Norgay
Tensing became the first people ever to reach the peak
of Mt. Everest. The highest mountain in the world had
been conquered and Nepal would never be the same.
Mountaineering has always been a mysterious activity to
those looking in from the outside.
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South East
Ridge normal route Royalty of US$ 70,000 has been fixed
for Sagarmatha (Everest) for a team consisting of 7
members. The team may include 5 more members provided if
pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The
royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The
team members will be granted 3 months visa.
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Route
south pillar Everest, south west face south west face
(Central Pillar) royalty up to 7 members US$ 50,000 and
the may include 5 more members provided it pays extra
US$ 10,000 for each additional member.
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The team
already permitted to scale Everest will have to pay US$
10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will
have to pay additional US$ 20,000 if it intends to
change the ascent route to normal south East Ridge
route.
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Garbage
deposit US$ 4,000 each team. Expedition team must
complete all necessary administrative formalities and
procedures in order to send back the garbage of the
expedition team to their respective countries, after the
completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism &
Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from
the team which will be refunded after the dispatch of
garbage from Nepal.
We suggests
you to allow two months for your whole trip depending upon
your physical and climatic conditions. |
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Annapurna Expedition - Meters
Drive Beni - Fly back Jomsom
Normal route - North face
Location: Latitude: 27.51.42 - Longitude: 86.51.50
Annapurna is an enormous Himalayan massif, the tenth
highest mountain in the world. In 1950, it became the
first 8,000 meter mountain to be successfully climbed. It
is located east of a great gorge cut through the Himalaya
by the Kali Gandaki River. The mountain has glaciers on
its western and north-western slopes which drain into this
gorge.
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Dhaulagiri Expedition - 8167 Meters
Was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is
derived from Sanskrit "dhavala means" means "White" and
girl is "Mountain" The Mountain was sighted by British
surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by
one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873,
but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss
aerial survey in 1949.
The French Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to
climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on
Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A Swiss
party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year
later.
After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a
Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb
followed a circuitous route around the mountain from
Tukuche, over Dhampus pass as French Col; to approach the
summit from the North-East Col. the expedition was
supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti"
which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end
of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and
the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down
the mountain to Tukuche.
Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven
members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier.
The peak was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s, the
Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil
Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a
Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the delicacies he dropped
were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas
would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain,
so it became the expedition pet. It was carried,
snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha,
where it finally ended up in the cooking pot.
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Lhotse Expedition - Meters
Normal route- West face
A trekking tour to the Everest Base/lhotse Camp starts
from either Jiri 188 km. Eastward of Katmandu or Lukla
just 45 minutes fly from Katmandu. As you trek ahead from
Lukla, you will be passing Namche Bazaar-densely populated
by Sherpas and a trading junction of this region;
Tengboche-world famous monastery, Lobuche and finally
approach to the base camp from where out expedition
starts.
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Its
long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount
Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are
connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never
drops below 8,000 meters. Best Climbing Months April, May,
late September, Oct Location: Latitude: 27.57.45 -
Longitude: 86.56.03 over.
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Lhotse Middle Expedition - 8414 Meters
A trekking tour to the Everest/Lhotse Base Camp starts
from either Jiri 188 km. Eastward of Katmandu or Lukla
just 45 minutes fly from Katmandu. As you trek ahead from
Lukla, you will be passing Namche Bazaar-densely populated
by Sherpas and a trading junction of this region;
Tengboche-world famous monastery, Lobuche and finally
approach to the base camp from where out expedition
starts.
The summit Lhotse East or Middle (8,414 m) is situated on
the ridge between Main summit of Lhotse 8,516 m and summit
Lhotse Shar 8,400 m. Any separate ascents up to this
summit are practically excluded because of the steep walls
and very crossed relief and it is possible to summit it
only climbing up to Lhotse Main or Lhotse Shar before and
then make a traverse of a very crossed ridge with a length
about 1000 meters.
Location: Lat: 27.57 - Long: 86.56
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Makalu Expedition - 8463 Meters
Spring/Autumn
Makalu (8463m.) was first climbed by a French party in
1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the
Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance.
Hillary and Ship ton photographed Makalu during a side
trip on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and
others approached the peak a year later after the failure
of their Cho Oyo expedition.
The first attempt on Makalu was in 1954 by a US team,
mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the
Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British
team approached the mountain, but this expedition was
abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be
evacuated.
In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In
the following spring, successfully ascents were made by
three teams of French climbers on successive days.
In 1960 a large scientific and mountaineering expedition
wintered at the foot of Ama Dablam, occupying the Green
and Silver buts. In May 1961, the expedition trekked
across the Mingbo La and other high passes to the foot off
Makalu, where they planned to climb the French route,
Sickness stopped the expedition, which became a heroic
struggle for survival.
The Japanese climbed Makalu in 1970, another French team
climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the
summit in 1975. In 1976 Spanish and Czechoslovakian teams
joined up near the summit.
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Manaslu Expedition - 8156 Meters
Autumn/Spring
Manaslu (8156m) was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese
expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word manasa,
meaning "intellect" or “soul" It is the same root word as
that for Mansarovar, the holy lake near Mt. Kailash in
Tibet. Just as the British considered Everest their
mountain. Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain.
HW Tillman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a
trek in 1950. But the first real survey of the peak was
made by a Japanese expedition in 1952.
A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak
from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953. When another team
followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them the
first team had been responsible for an avalanche that
destroyed a monastery. And refused to let the 1954
expedition climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh
Himal instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the
monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the
one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an
atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second
successful Japanese expedition was in 1971. There was a
South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an
avalanche that killed five climbers and 10 Sherpas ended
the second made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member
of a Tyrolean expedition that climbed from the Marshyangdi
valley in 1972.
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Mt.Everest Expedition - 8848 Meters
A trekking tour to the Everest Base Camp starts from
either Jiri 188 km. Eastward of Katmandu or Lukla just 45
minutes fly from Katmandu. As you trek ahead from Lukla,
you will be passing Namche Bazaar-densely populated by
Sherpas and a trading junction of this region;
Tengboche-world famous monastery, Lobuche and finally
approach to the base camp from where out expedition
starts. Generally, Everest is being scaled through the
four different routes. Among them East Face is normal
route and if you follow this, four camps to be made to
summit the mountain. If you follow the South West Face
need to have six camps and is the hardest one.
Camping at high altitude needs careful planning. The site
must be as safe as possible from avalanches and tent must
be anchored firmly enough to withstand gale-force winds.
In spite of the harshness of life at high altitude, one is
constantly aware of the unbelievable beauty of the
landscape. Views across distant mountains in unforgettable
in the clear situation. Everest is an impressively
beautiful place if one can ignore the piles of rubbish
from several decades of mountaineering expeditions.
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Mt. Kanchenjunga Expedition - 8598 Meters
Kanchenjunga, at 8598m, is the third-highest peak in the
world and the second-highest in Nepal. It was first
climbed by a British team in 1956. The peak consists of
four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high
and some people classify it as a separate 8000m. Peak.
Thee first Westerner to explore Kanchenjunga was the
British botanist JD Hooker, who visited the area twice in
1848 and 1849. Exploration of the Sikkim, side of the peak
continued with both British and pundit explorers mapping
and photographing until 1899. In that year a party led by
Douglas fresh field made a circuit of Kanchenjunga and
produced what is still one of the most authoritative maps
of the region.
Exploration continued, mostly from the Sikkim side, with
expeditions starting from Darjeeling in British India. One
of the major contributors to Western knowledge about the
region was Dr AM Kellas, who later died in Tibet during
the approach march of the 1921 Everest expedition. German
expeditions attacked the peak in 1929, 1930 and again in
1931, but none was successful. After the was Sikkim was
closed but Nepal was open. In 1955 a team led by Dr
Charles Evans approached the peak via the Yalung Glacier.
Two teams climbed the peak, stopping just short of the
summit to conform to an agreement with the Maharaja of
Sikkim that the summit would remain inviolate.
The Japanese then took up the challenge and mounted
expeditions in 1967, 1973 and n1974. When they climbed
Yalung Kang. A German Expedition climbed Yalung Kang in
1975, and in Indian army team mounted the second
successful expeditions to the main peak of Kanchenjunga.
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