ARTICLES :
Article by Coby Kunst

Never have I seen the phrases 'sustainable tourism' and 'eco-tourism' being used in Nepal as much as in this season. My first visit was about seven years ago when I entered via the Indian border. I fell in love immediately with Nepal and its people and I was sure I would come back.

One year later I arrived by plane, and at Katmandu Airport, I read a signboard with the slogan: Don’t try to change Nepal, let Nepal change you. It never left my mind.
During the Annapurna Circuit Trek I was amazed and ashamed of what I saw: walls of empty beer bottles, trash full of plastic bags and water bottles and a lot more of unrecyclable wastes.


Coby Kunst
General Advisor

In my Lonely Planet Guidebook I had read about KEEP, ACAP, TAAN, NMA ,HRA,and eco-advices for foreign tourists, and I did my best to follow their policy. I used water-filter chemicals, drank tea, ate the local food and took wastes (batteries, plastics, etc.) back to my country (Netherlands) where we have modern ways of treating disposal.

I must have visited Nepal at least ten times now (because in some year I came three times) and a lot has changed since the first time. And I am not so much concerned about what these changes could mean to me as much as how they affect the fragile nature and the people. Nature is fundamental of life and it should stand like a rock and be healthy, and the second important thing is, peace and quiet. I know I am kicking at already open doors (see also NTTR Issue 13 interview with Reinhold Messner), but I want to expose my awareness of what is going on.

At the same time this brings me back to sustainable tourism. Both Nepali government and private entrepreneurs have denied their responsibilities towards creating jobs, especially for the young people of this nation. I don’t want to go into the reasons of their failure, but one thing is sure that if you give work and income to your people, they will not want to join the insurgency or go to foreign countries etc. I know hundreds of young Nepalese now, educated and ambitious, but without a job. The manpower-system does not solve the problem. How wonderful I would feel if I could build whatever is necessary to provide a living to thousands of Nepali families.

TAAN did a lot - and probably also enjoyed it very much - to open up friendly connections with people in remote areas this year. I have seen hundreds of pictures of it and it’s really unbelievable how pure, clean and unspoiled the people and their environment are. And then……… here comes Mr. Tourist, wanting coke, beer, lasagna, chocolate, warmth and God knows what else.

The UNDP and other donor agencies have Rural Poverty Alleviation Programmer for these areas. Poverty….? What is that? Do we think they are poor, should have more? Have? More? I wonder if anybody asked these future tourist-servers if they want or need more; perhaps they are happy with their life as it is. Then there comes a mental dilemma: respect them and leave them in peace or drown them in a future with unknown consequences…..

I understand that trekking can give a lot of business to many families. But at what cost? Only taking and not giving will ruin everything. And here comes the magic word: BALANCE.

Of course, I would love to show countless people the beauty of Nepal, but then this beauty has to sustain the pressure of time. Otherwise there will be only barren landscapes, landslides, poverty inflation, poisoned rivers and fields (like in Europe!), mountains full of ropes, ice-axes, torn tents, empty fuel- and oxygen bottles, frozen bodies. On the mountainsides there is an honorable task for the NMA and it would bring a lot of goodwill.

I think you should first ask the people of new areas if they are happy; inform them honestly about the consequences of receiving tourists and when they agree, support them with the basic important things in life, like clean and plenty of drinking water, health-care, a school. But first of all ASK what they need desperately and don’t create in your own (Western) mind needs that may be even harmful for them of which I know some awful examples.

Paying for permits? Okay, but invest 50 % in the concerned area. I know that this too is a hot item for many, e.g. TAAN. If there is no permit needed, maybe tourism will increase, but a registration-system like Tourism Registration Certificate of entering and leaving would perhaps be a good idea, also because of tracing and security.
And so if there is finally to be tourism in a new area, please, from the beginning, make and follow rules on balance e.g. let empty bottles and tins be carried out. It creates jobs again. Ask tourists to keep their rubbish with them, to be destroyed in their own country with modern technology, or invest in Nepal for this system.

Of course, I don’t expect Nepal not to change, it is inevitable. But go slowly and with intelligence, honesty and dignity, from the inside.

To every tourist I would like to say: take care of Nepal, more than you do even of your own country. Cherish the environment and the people and realize that you are part (for only too short a time) of a unique country.

“Don’t change it, let it change you”



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